Gossamer trails: Zagreb

"I cannot endure to waste anything as precious
as autumn sunshine by staying in the house.
So I spend almost all the daylight hours
in the open air.
- Nathaniel Hawthorne

(photo by Barbara Bertovic)

The long, hot summer is now long gone, and the autumn, 'the artist's muse', has entered the city through the main gate. I figured it would be about time to share with you a walk through my beloved home town, Zagreb. The laziness that has once again overpowered many of us could be associated with the wonderful gossamer days that serve as a one-way ticket to delightful afternoon strolls through the medieval streets and parks that have enriched both my childhood memories and my present life. You will not encounter photos of the small threads spun by baby spiders, that carry them through the air to their new lives... but perhaps you will breathe in that famous autumn spirit that Zagreb is well known for, both to its citizens and long-time visitors... a flimsiness barely visible... just like gossamer.

one of many medieval stairs and
secret pathways of the Old town
(Kapucinske stube)

(an old photo by a famous photographer
Marija Braut, ''Kapucinske stube'')

Zagreb Upper town still has gas lamps
which have to be lit before the dark

(Berlin is the European city with the most gas lamps — cca 40,000.
London, Dublin, Kraków, Warszaw, Zagreb and a handful of other
cities have retained them or retrofitted their streets as well)

"On such a day each road is planned
To lead to some enchanted land;
Each turning meets expectancy.
The signs I read on every hand.
I know by autumn's wizardry
On such a day the world can be
Only a great glad dream for me--
Only a great glad dream for me!"
- Eleanor Myers Jewett, An Autumn Day

the famous Lotrscak Tower


Zagreb has an interesting way in which it marks the noon hour. Other cities may mark the hours including noon with chimes, tolling bells or melodies, but Zagreb is rather unique in announcing the noon hour with an ear-shattering burst from an artillery cannon placed on top of the very Lotrscak Tower. ( Noonday 'Chime' Video)






the most prominent feature of the
Old town: Cathedral's twin neo-gothic
spires built in 1899

another medieval path

Town's legend: this guy has been doing his
gymnastics all over the Upper town for decades

The town center is surrounded by a"green horseshoe"
of wonderful parks, creating an "intriguing blend"
of busy squares and leafier areas.


from the tourist's point of view

a story of Zagreb

Deja vu: Botanical garden

I spent both yesterday's afternoon and today's morning in the Botanical garden ( I did go home for a sleep lol). Although I never miss to visit this oasis of natural beauty whenever in the neighborhood, this time it was for their spring seedlings sale. Yesterday I came too late and today - well I failed to see the notice (in a large font!) that the sale is open only Mon-Fri 11-14. Bugger! We had a bit of an early morning thunderstorm with strong winds but after the clouds have cleared the weather was just amazing, as always after the rain. And what better place to find oneself than in a Botanical garden, with your camera (and low battery! drat) Even though I've only been there yesterday, it was like opening a new treasure chest all over again. And it seems I'll be there Monday. I've scanned through the plants they have for sale and seen quite a few extraordinary wonders that caused excessive salivation ;-)

this Sophora tree continues to mesmerize me...
(SOPHORA JAPONICA 'PENDULA' )















link to the Botanical garden Arboretum

Botanical garden Zagreb

Botanical garden - April

I couldn't hold my horses. I was thrilled to hear of Botanical garden's Opening of the season 2008 last week and planned to visit some time this week. But seeing all the windy weather, I thought by the time I get to visit the place, all the lovely trees in bloom will have lost half of their spring magic due to strong winds ( I know, not the kind of thing most people would worry about).
Anyway, I was punished for my wanton behaviour, as half of the garden was still temporarily inaccessible due to some digging about. I guess the gardeners and employees in there hibernated for too long. They should have done all that by now. It was sad to see some rear parts of the garden neglected. Hopefully someone will bring a touch of green thumb there soon. Nevertheless, always a pleasure to be reminded that there is more to life than cars and exhaust fumes.



The Botanical Garden of the Faculty of Natural Science and Mathematics was founded in 1889 by botany professor, Dr. Antun Heinz. The garden covers a surface of 4.7 ha. The main part of the botanical garden is the arboretum, built in the style of an English garden. The flower garden is built in the French style, with strict symmetrical lines. The eastern part of the botanical garden includes two artificial lakes, with wetland cedars growing nearby.



The four phytogeographical regions are represented: karst, alpine, Mediterranean and sub-Mediterranean. Greenhouses are not open to the public, but a good portion is out in the open during the summer months (Mediterranean plants, palms, cacti and other succulents). Some 10,000 different plants species are grown in the Botanical garden. The collection is expanded with the exchange of seeds with other botanical gardens and arboreta throughout the world (some 350) or by the transfer of seeds or live plants from the original habitat.

The first plants were planted in 1892, after some preparatory work. Already by the end of that year, the garden was completed.

Always an oasis of calm in a busy city

I'm sure all of the fellow-gardeners know what I mean by saying that we are surrounded by such amazing diversity, and botanical gardens are just the right places to appreciate that.

Many old trees have surrendered

to the effects of the last years drought

I tried not to make records of the neglected parts of the garden, as I'll still give them a month or two to prove me wrong, but a certain Martian that followed me around managed to do just the opposite (I noticed that many gardeners out there are in some way related to Martians )